Health and Beauty

Clean and smooth skin, a guy thing too

by Bernadette Lam

British Prime Minister Tony Blair spent more than £1,800 (about HK$24,600) on cosmetics over the past six years, whereas an average British woman spends only £195 a year on make-up and skincare.

One could feel strange to see men preen and primp. Men's images are often
portrayed as being unkempt rather than cosmetic-loving.

Back in the 18 th century, men in Europe wore powdered wigs, perfume or even make-up. That trend changed over the years and men's appearances stressed more on a macho look. But now, the fashion of men pampering and indulging themselves is back.

It is popular for men to become what is called metrosexual, a term describing
urban men who have a strong aesthetic sense and spend time and money on appearance and lifestyle.

Men's pursuit of a gorgeous look is now a global trend. According to a study in 56 countries by research firm AC Nielsen in 2004, sales in personal care products like deodorants, razors and blades were benefited from men's increasing attention towards grooming. Men's beauty product market is flourishing.

Roger Tang Wai-fu, vice chairman of the Hong Kong Hair and Beauty Merchants Association, said men's cosmetic market in Hong Kong was still at its infant stage.

Manufacturers have opened a new line of cosmetic products to cater for men's needs.

“Men's skin is 20 per cent thicker than that of women's. With more oil secretion, men need to spend more effort on deep-cleansing,” said Angele Yu Wai-chong, technical and commercial director of cosmetic company Clarins in Hong Kong .

Cally Kwok Lee, vice president of the Federation of Beauty Industry, said: “What men buy most is no doubt soap, body-wash and shampoo… products for cleansing. Besides cleansing, they also need sunblocks as many of them play sports.”

In Hong Kong , men's skincare products are a fast-growing segment in the beauty industry.

Tang said men were generally more willing to spend on skincare products and services nowadays.

Asked whether men try to look good for the sake of their girlfriends, Ronald Kwok, one of the male consultants from MENCE Beauty, a men's beauty company, said: “Not only girlfriends, but colleagues and friends are showing concern towards men's beauty and health.”

Nicholas Chow, a hotel and tourism management student at the Chinese University of Hong Kong , considers appearance matters a lot. People's images largely depend on their looks, he said.

Chow uses aftershave, cleanser, toner, moisturiser, sunscreen and acne-medication to protect his skin.

“If one's skin is good, he doesn't need to use any cosmetics, but when one's having skin problems, he may need to use skincare products,” he said.

However, local men's awareness on skincare is still considered inadequate.

Yu said many men, for convenience's sake, just used a piece of soap to clean themselves from head to toe.

The biggest skin problem for men is acne and ingrown hair when they shave improperly or when dead skin accumulates.

“They should use pH balanced cleansers,” she said. Mild cleansers help lessen reddening and combat acne, without draining skin moisture. Soap, which most men use to wash their faces, is not an ideal solution to reduce facial oil.

“All I use is only water,” said Ben Hon Chung-hei, an architecture student at the Chinese University . He said it was unnecessary to use cosmetic products unless he had skin problems.

Meanwhile, men will usually ask their mothers, girlfriends or wives to buy them cosmetic products rather than shopping on their own.

Maria Tam Siu-mi, associate professor of anthropology at the Chinese University , said men refused to admit that they were beauty-conscious as they did not want to be considered inferior in the gender hierarchy.

Still, expectations in the men's skincare market remain positive among marketers.

To develop the market, Yu suggested strategies targeting on the needs of men to be deployed, such as hiring male consultants and opening a “men's corner” in certain personal care shops.

Tang said men's products enjoyed a larger room for development because it was still at its early stage. “We have to motivate men, especially teenage boys, to pay attention to skincare. Skincare is a necessity, not something which is queer,” he said.

How guys should take care of
their skin

A four-step guide from Cally Kwok Lee of the Federation of Beauty Industry:

1. Wash the face with an appropriate type of cleansing milk

2. Use a cleansing foam for deep-cleansing

3. Apply a facial toner

4. Finish off with a moisturiser